Krishna Mani Baral

Pokhara: Dil Bahadur Gurung (67) of Tangting in Madi Rural Municipality of Kaski, which falls within the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), recounts his experience of increasing water scarcity in areas that once had abundant water even during winter.

Gurung, who operated a sheep farm for 30 years in  Kori, now a popular tourist attraction in the Annapurna Conservation Area, said that areas that previously had water sources in abundance during winter are now becoming dry. Gurung noticed a significant change in water availability when he led a team to study trekking trails to Kori in 2021.

The team, which started the trek from Krapu Hill in Jan 2021, faced water scarcity for both drinking and cooking on their first night at Chamro. Gurung recalled seeing previously abundant spring sources dry up for the first time that year. The team managed to provide water for the 20-member team with difficulty, he added.

Upon reaching the Kori Hill (3,800 meters), Gurung found that all known water sources had dried up. The team had to spend the night without food due to the lack of water. They later found a gallon of water in a locked shed which they used sparingly to quench their thirst. Gurung said he never experienced such water scarcity during his years of moving sheep farms across high alpine regions.

The districts of Manang and Mustang, beyond the Himalayas, are known as rain shadow zones. However, these areas within the Annapurna Conservation Area have recently been experiencing heavy rainfall. The cold desert regions of Mustang and Manang are now facing increased incidents of flooding, resulting in loss of life and property.

Conservation expert Dr Hum Bahadur Gurung suggests constructing ponds to manage water resources, as the increasing dryness in high alpine regions during winter affects not only trekkers but also wildlife. Stating that the drying up of water sources could impact the biodiversity of high-altitude areas, he urged concerned authorities to address the issue. Since traditionally rain shadow areas have started receiving rainfall during the monsoon season, he urged authorities for new structures and development approaches to adapt to these changing conditions.

Rivers dry up as water is diverted into hydropower tunnel

Studies show that the rate of snow melting in the Himalayas is increasing. Recent research also indicates a growing problem of water sources drying up in high Himalayan and hilly regions.

Locals of Madi Rural Municipality in Kaski report an additional problem arising from human behavior causing streams to dry up. Bhupal Gurung, a resident of Sabi in Madi-7, said that temperatures have been rising during winter in recent years, and heavy floods during the rainy season sometimes force them to abandon their settlements. “As if it were not enough, hydropower projects divert all the water from rivers into tunnels during winter, causing the rivers to dry up and increasing temperatures in nearby settlements,” he said. “The river used to bring cool air when it was flowing. Now, the power projects have taken all the water into tunnels. The river is dry, and it’s getting hotter,” he said.

The drying up of rivers not only increases temperatures but also destroys biodiversity, according to Gurung. He said floods can force people to flee their settlements during the rainy season, while in winter, the dry streams affect those who rely on fishing for their livelihood. He has also observed fish populations disappearing, and aquatic animals and wildlife dependent on water are no longer seen.

Before the construction of hydropower projects, various species of water birds used to visit the local rivers. These birds are no longer seen these days. There used to be plenty of otters that feed on fish. With the streams no longer flowing, various fish species have disappeared, and the otters and water birds that came to feed on them are no longer seen, locals say.

Rivers and streams naturally have less water in winter. The situation becomes chronic when hydropower projects divert all available water into tunnels to maintain operations during this low-flow period. Devi Jung Gurung, chairperson of Madi Rural Municipality, said that the drying up of rivers affects not only the locals but also the environment, aquatic life and wildlife. He said that the disappearance of streams has led to the extinction of aquatic species and impacted the environment.

Locals say the Department of National Parks and Wildlife Conservation (DNPWC) should monitor whether hydropower projects are releasing the mandated 10 percent of water flow into the streams as per their agreements. Dr Rabin Kadariya, chief of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP), said that they have been monitoring water release within their jurisdiction and sending letters to non-compliant projects urging them to adhere to the agreement. “We also respond to public complaints by contacting the relevant hydropower projects to ensure compliance,” he added. “So far, we have only been issuing reminders through letters and phone calls to non-compliant hydropower projects. From this  year, we plan to take legal action if the situation persists.”

Dr Kadariya remains hopeful that projects will comply with the water release agreements to avoid facing legal consequences. He also noted that water scarcity issues in streams are most critical during the months of Chaitra and Baisakh (mid-March to mid-May).

Local representatives say hydropower projects are being built within the Annapurna Conservation Area without proper consideration of the local environment and biodiversity.

The chairpersons of Annapurna Rural Municipality in Myagdi and Madi Rural Municipality in Kaski state that hydropower projects are being built in these biodiversity-rich Himalayan areas without any coordination with local governments. Projects receive construction permits directly from the federal government without discussing the status of local wildlife, aquatic life, or the appropriate elevation limits for construction with the rural municipalities, they added.

Bharat Kumar Pun, chairperson of Annapurna Rural Municipality, said that a hydropower project is being constructed up to Hum Khola at an elevation of 2,883 meters on the Northern Annapurna Base Camp trekking route. “Roads built for hydropower projects have shortened the North Annapurna Base Camp trek from 9-10 days to just 3-4 days. This has impacted the local environment and tourism,” Pun added.

Although environmental impact assessments are conducted, Pun said that the numerous hydropower projects along the rivers are affecting biodiversity by drying up streams during winter as they divert water into tunnels. Local representatives claim that while environmental impact assessment reports are prepared before project initiation, they often prove impractical.

Madi Rural Municipality Chairperson Gurung said hydropower projects in Himalayan regions are initiated with direct approval from the federal government, without coordination with local governments regarding potential impacts. This lack of attention to local biodiversity conservation is affecting the environment, he added.

Hydropower project work is ongoing near Kapuche Glacier Lake, Nepal’s lowest glacier lake, up to Hugu Goth, according to Gurung. 

Raju Acharya, director of Friends of Nature, an organization working in the conservation area for three decades, said hydropower projects at the foot of the Annapurna range are affecting the habitats and grazing areas of rare wildlife such as Himalayan black bears and snow leopards. He added that when projects fail to release the agreed amount of water into streams, it directly impacts aquatic life, plants and wildlife.

As many as 23 small and large hydropower projects are currently operational within the Annapurna Conservation Area, generating 312 MW of electricity. Eleven projects under construction will produce an additional 1,018 MW.

ACAP Chief Dr Kadariya said 69 more areas within the conservation area are under study for potential hydropower projects.

Unauthorized hotels, restaurants on the rise

The Annapurna Conservation Area has seen an increase in unauthorized construction of hotels and restaurants on government land. This trend has been growing since 2017, with many structures built during the Covid-19 pandemic. These establishments have been constructed by clearing forests within the conservation area by using locally sourced timber and construction materials.

The lack of coordination between local rural municipalities and the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) during the pandemic period allowed for the proliferation of these unauthorized structures, locals say. Some of these constructions reportedly involve investments from local representatives.

In 2010, the ACAP Liaison Office in Pokhara decided to confiscate houses and sheds built by encroaching on government and forest land within the Annapurna Conservation Area and slapped a fine of Rs 50,000 per person, as per Section 28 of the National Parks and Wildlife Conservation Act, 1972.

The hotel operators challenged the decision in Kaski District Court. The district court, however, upheld the decision taken by ACAP Liaison Office in 2022. Recently, the Kaski District Court also upheld ACAP’s decision on five additional hotels. Rabin Chaudhary of ACAP Liaison Office in Pokhara, reported that two more cases involving structures on government land within the conservation area are still pending.

Out of 115 illegally constructed hotels, restaurants, and other structures on the Mardi trekking trail, the district court has now upheld ACAP’s decision on 16 hotels.

Previously, ACAP had the authority to investigate and decide on illegal activities within the conservation area. However, recent legal amendments require such cases to be handled through the district court.

With the increasing popularity of new trekking routes like Mardi Himal, Khumai, Krapu Hill, Kapuche Lake and Kori Hill, there has been a rush to build hotels and restaurants. ACAP data shows that 314 businesses, including hotels, restaurants, and tea shops, are operating on government land within the conservation area.

About 200 hotels and restaurants were registered before 2016. After the election of local representatives in 2017, rural municipalities demanded the authority to register and approve hotels. This has led to a situation where previously registered establishments haven’t renewed their licenses, and newly built structures have no legal basis for taxation. As a result, the government is not receiving any revenue from these 314 hotels built on land in conservation areas.

Conservation activists say that while local communities were once actively involved in forest and wildlife conservation, recent trends show locals building tourist infrastructure on government land without permission, focusing more on exploitation than conservation.

Record tourist numbers boost revenue

The Annapurna Conservation Area has reported unprecedented tourist numbers and revenue for the 2023/24 fiscal year. According to the ACAP, 222,180 tourists visited the Annapurna Region during the review year, generating a record fee of Rs 383.68m.

This year’s figures represent a significant increase from the previous year, which saw 172,510 visitors and Rs 306.6m in revenue. The current numbers also surpass the pre-covid peak of 181,000 tourists recorded in 2018/19. Of the total visitors this year, 117,845 were from SAARC (South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation) countries, while 104,296 came from other nations.

ACAP applies different fee structures based on visitors’ origin. SAARC country nationals pay Rs 2,000 per person, while other international visitors are charged Rs 3,000. A nominal fee of Rs 100 is set for domestic tourists, although this is often not collected.

The substantial revenue from tourist entry fees has attracted attention from various stakeholders. However, conservation activists say the three tiers of government have not paid adequate attention to sustainable tourism development and biodiversity conservation in the region.

Revenue and ownership disputes

The management of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) has been a subject of controversy. On 19 Jan 2024, the Council of Ministers decided to hand over the management responsibility of both the Annapurna and Manaslu conservation areas to the National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC) for four years. The management contract of the Annapurna Conservation Area had not been renewed since 16 Jan 2021.

While this decision resolved the uncertainty about who would manage ACAP for the next four years, the Gandaki Province Government and local bodies have been consistently demanding that the Annapurna Conservation Area, which generates the highest revenue among all conservation areas in the country, should come under provincial jurisdiction.

Surendra Raj Pandey, the Chief Minister of Gandaki Province, has been advocating for both ACAP and MCAP (Manaslu Conservation Area Project) to come under provincial control. He has been discussing this issue with local representatives from the rural municipalities within these conservation areas.

Chiranjivi Sharma Poudel, the Chief Attorney of Gandaki Province, stated that the provincial government is clear that conservation areas within Gandaki Province should be under provincial control. He argued that it is not legally sound for the federal government to entrust these areas to an NGO-model organization. Poudel explained that the government’s decision to hand over forest management of the two conservation areas to the NTNC was based on a law from 1972, which is outdated given Nepal’s transition to a federal system.

“Article 304 of the Constitution of Nepal, 2015, invalidates any laws that are inconsistent with federal principles,” he said, arguing that while the constitution gives management authority to the provinces, the federal government’s decision to give this authority to an NGO goes against the spirit of the constitution. He has advised the Chief Minister that this decision could be overturned if challenged in the Supreme Court.

The National Natural Resources and Fiscal Commission is a constitutional body responsible for distributing national revenue. It collects revenue from across the country and distributes it according to constitutional guidelines. There is a legal provision to distribute funds to provinces, the federal government, and local bodies on a proportional basis.

“Provinces should receive their share through the commission. However, no money is being deposited with the Commission as an NGO-model organization has taken over the forest management,” Poudel said. “This raises questions about financial transparency. The Gandaki province government, therefore, must insist that conservation areas within the province should be under provincial control.”

Juddha Bahadur Gurung, a member of the commission, revealed that they had recommended two years ago that royalties from ACAP should be distributed. The commission, according to Gurung, has suggested allocating 25 percent each to rural municipalities and the province, and 50 percent to the federal government. He noted that 16 rural municipalities in Gandaki Province that fall within the Annapurna Conservation Area, along with Ward-19 of Pokhara, would receive a share of 25 percent.

However, this recommendation is reportedly stalled at the Ministry of Finance. It has been suggested that the 50 percent allocated to the federal government would be given to ACAP and NTNC as management expenses. Gurung added that the commission recommended that the royalties received by provinces and rural municipalities should be spent within the designated conservation areas.

Roads shortening trekking trails

The world-renowned Annapurna trekking region is facing challenges due to road expansion, even in uninhabited areas. This development is disappointing tourists who come to enjoy trekking in the Himalayan region.

Sheshkant Sharma, former president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association’s Gandaki chapter, said while overall tourist numbers in the Annapurna trekking area are at an all-time high, there has been a decline in trekkers from Europe, the US and the UK who prefer longer treks.

“Road expansion has occurred in conservation areas without human settlements”, Sharma said. “Provincial and local governments haven’t paid attention to the potential negative impacts. For instance, roads have been extended to uninhabited areas like Kruphu and Hugu Gotha near Kaphuche Lake in the Annapurna Conservation Area,” he added.

In Kruphu, the road was built with federal government funds. In Kapuche, despite requests to consider the sensitivity of the Himalayan region and biodiversity, a hydroelectric project has been constructed up to the base of the mountain.

Sharma said roads are being built to Nar-Phu region (4,200 meters), Dharmashala (4,650 meters) above Muktinath Temple on the way from Manang via Thorong Pass, Aalubaari (3,900 meters) on the Dhaulagiri trekking route, and Yak Kharka (3,860 meters) on the trail to Tilicho Lake from Jomsom.

As a result of road constructions, the Annapurna Circuit trek, which used to take 21 days, can now be completed in just one week. This has led to a decrease in tourists who prefer longer treks.

Conservation expert Dr Hum Bahadur Gurung warns that road network development in uninhabited high Himalayan areas could impact wildlife grazing areas and habitats, and increase the risk of landslides, among other problems.

Annapurna Conservation Area, spanning 7,629 square kilometers in five districts of Gandaki Province, was declared in 1992. The area is home to a population of 92,675 and serves as a vital source of clean water for Pokhara city.

The area is rich in biodiversity, home to over 1,800 plant species, 128 mammal species, 518 bird species, and hundreds of reptiles, amphibians and butterflies. It is the only conservation area in Nepal where all six native pheasant species can be found. The region also boasts cultural significance with sites like Muktinath attracting both Hindu and Buddhist pilgrims.

This story has been produced with the support of the Internews Earth Journalism Network through the Media for Inclusive Green Growth project.